More Narrative

With the narrative we left off with DG getting on the bus to Incheon. After that I went back to KIAS and wrote a post on this blog, but I did want to try to do another tourist thing before the day ended so I then spent a little time trying to decide what would look good at night. I came up with two things. One of them was cribbed from a CD of Korea photos, songs, etc that had been made for me by SH (one of the grad students). He'd included a picture of Namdaemun gate at night, soo I decided to go look at that. The other one was that I thought the river (like most reasonably old cities, Seoul has a river running through it. The name of Seoul's river is the Hangang. J thinks it more beautiful than the Seine and the Thames) might be pretty at night. I think I had seen a tourism website claiming that it "lights up at night." So I hopped the subway to Namdaemun gate. (Theres's no Namdaemun gate stop, but I forget the name of the nearest stop) and looked at the gate and the nearby Xmas decorations and took a few photos, then decided it was time to eat, since people seem to eat early in Korea and I wouldn't want to miss the opportunity. So I stopped in a decent looking Chinese restaurant and got something relatively mild. Mushrooms and rice with some seafood. The water it came with was barley water. This place was near to Seoul station. On the TV was a rather strange show on which about six people were singing in a sort of chorus, and periodically one of them would be selected for a solo and perhaps squirted with water. I think the water squirt would occur if the person flubbed the lyrics, or messed up in some way. The squirting implement was embedded in the microphone, so it was sure to get them, and generally just at the moment they seemed to be thinking "oh boy! they didn't catch that! i'm going to make it through this!"

As hinted at above by the description of my meal selection, my stomach was a little dicey this evening. The day on which I felt really bad and posted about it was two days later.

Anyway, the next stop was the river. I went and got on the train and decided which of the subway stations looked like it was closest to the river. I got to a certain station where I was going to need to change and take the train two stations roughly parallel to the river to a point where it was slightly closer. I decided I might as well just get off where I was and walk a little bit, so I did. The train station itself was pretty neat. It looked like the starship enterprise. The river was less impressive than the tourism website had made it sound but was still reasonably pretty. I confess I'm still partial to the Seine, though. The area between the train station and the river was a little seedy, and I felt a little silly for not having entertained that possibility, since it seems to me the phrase "down by the river" evokes an air of seediness. Whatever.

I didn't have any trouble finding the river but did realize that the project was a little ill-thought out. And not just in the sense of the rube-ishness already discussed. In fact, the Hangang is bordered for most of its length by an expressway. So, I made it pretty close to the river and then it was completely unclear what to do. Those that know New York may imagine that I'd decided to go check out the East River without thinking ahead of time about how I was going to get across the FDR. (Lake Shore Drive in Chicago and Marine Drive in Bombay are not really good comparisons...) But it turned out that what I could do without too much trouble, (i.e., only have to dart across a couple of off-ramps) was walk a little ways out onto a bridge over the river, so I did that and took some pictures. Then I think it was home and early to bed.

More Photos

Some more narrative below as well...

Seoul Pictures

I don't have as much time here as I thought I might. But here's some Seoul pictures.

Morning of the 10th, Lunch etc.

I guess I left off with us eventually finding a restaurant. Do I want to backtrack and say anything about the wandering around? I guess so.

While we were looking for one we were in an area called Namdaemun. I thought that meant we were back in the place we'd gotten out of the cab and gotten on to the subway which would have made the original plan even more bizarre than it already was. But in fact that area was Dongdaemun, as DG correctly remembered. "Warren" is a good word to describe Namdaemun. Seemed like a good place to buy Guci bags and Adldas sweatsuits.

Now, lunch was Bulgoki. I think I was supposed to convince DG that what he really wanted was Kalbi, but that seemed a difficult assignment and I wasn't up to it.

Both are beef cooked on the table right in front of you. Bulgoki it's in a pan with a little water and a bunch of those long skinny mushrooms that come in bunches. Maybe some onions too. Kalbi is grilled, and then you put it on a leave of lettuce with bean paste, roll it up like a little burrito and eat it. If you're lucky you also get this other kind of leaf which has a slightly spicy flavor and is very good.

Anyway DG seemed quite sure that what he wanted was Bulgoki and when he got it seemed to be what he was expecting, and he was very pleased with the result, declaring it better than what one gets in the Korean restaurant near Penn Station (and near CUNY grad center). So I don't particularly regret not trying to convince him to have Kalbi instead, although I myself prefer it.

After lunch we headed accross the street to a big department store. DG wanted to make one attempt to find a teapot for his wife. We looked at the teapots but there was nothing appropriate. What was wanted was something Korean and Korean-style, not kitschy but not fancy. What was available was fancy and mostly Western-style: the stores target market was Koreans looking to conspicuously consume.

By this time I wanted some coffee so we headed to the Starbuck's another floor up. Normally I try to avoid Starbuck's but in Northeast Asia I'll make an exception. We drank our coffee in a very nice rooftop garden.

We still had about an hour before DG needed to be back at his hotel. Not enough time to figure out another major activity and undertake it, but given that, a lot of time to kill. We decided to stroll for a bit. DG picked a street that looked interesting and we strolled down it. When we got to a sort of clearing, we found ourselves back in the shadow of Seoul Tower and got a little frustrated. He wanted to know which way to walk so that our walk would be back towards the hotel. We talked to a stranger on the street and a woman in a hotel and in both cases had some difficulty conveying that we did not actually plan on making all of the two hour walk back to the hotel. But we did manage to get the requisite information and took off walking. After about 45 minutes it was time to get more serious about getting there and we were discussing a cab when I spotted the subway logo up ahead. So, subway back to the hotel, then DG got his shuttle bus to the airport, and I was on my own.

Morning of the 10th-- the Tower Itself

I left off with me and DG getting out of the cab. We then got another cab and the new guy took one look at what Prof C had written and took us right there. Then we took the cable car to the top of the mountain ("cable car" here means one of those things that hangs from a cable-- I think the things that run on tracks in San Francisco are also sometimes called cable cars. [update: Marmadont confirms and explains where the cable in question is in that case in comments below.]). It was a good vew from the car and from the mountain. As we were walking up it looked like there was a good place to take photos from by DG didn't head for it and I was following him. It looked kind of like an ampitheater or perhaps some kind of fortification. Anyway I figured I could get to it later. Then I couldn't because some reenactor guys in costume had set up in it. But then I got a picture of them in these stage-ramparts, and a photo of myself with them, so that was even better. They weren't in the ramparts when we passed the first time because they were in their dressing room. Some time after we passed the ramparts there was some drumming and out they came in their regalia and marched about a bit drumming and disappeared down the path. As we later learned, to take up their positions on the ramparts, of course. There was also a sort of pagoda and we looked at that a bit and then got our tickets for the viewing deck and went up there.

On the way to the viewing deck there was something listing various other noteworthy towers. I remember thinking one should see whether Seoul Tower was taller or shorter than Tokyo Tower since SH was sure to care deeply about the outcome of that. But then I didn't get around to doing so. Of course I found the Sears Tower.

DG and I know each other from NY so of course we talked about the World Trade Center. He used to know some trick: a coffee shop on one of the highest floors that had great views and the coffees cost 5 bucks but the viewing deck itself cost 10 bucks and didn't include a coffee. Plus the coffee shop you could take the elevator right from the parking garage instead of waiting in line. Me, I never went to the WTC. Just kept putting it off.

The windows on the viewing deck were all labeled with cities in the world and their distances. We saw two americans getting their picture taken under Pyongyang. ("Be sure you get `Pyongyang' in the picture.") I spotted a couple where the roles of city and country had been reversed. ("Indonesia, Jakarta" maybe). One could see the river, and some palaces. I guess this is best left for the pictures. Moving pictures from my computer to this one is not so easy (mines a Mac, this is Windows) so I'm just going to hold off until... well, probably just until tomorrow. We're headed up to my grandma and grandpa's and they have a Mac.

Moving along with the narrative, after the tower, we went back down and the next order of business was lunch. We had tried in vain to get a specific lunch recommendation out of Prof C. She just said, well, when you come down from the tower there will be lunch places and if you go into one and it's empty don't go there but if it's full of people go there. Well, maybe there would have been a lot of people if we'd exited in the direction she had in mind. But if so, then I guess we didn't because we had to walk around for a while before we found a place. I got a little nervous because the whole week DGs affection for Korean barbecue and in particular for the fact that you get it with raw garlic had been a topic of much discussion. JH, for example had told a story along the lines of "the first time I knew this was a pretty strange guy was at MIT when I saw him sitting there peeling and eating clove after clove of raw garlic." And I was in the uncomfortable position that, since I'd been in Korea for three months I had some sort responsibility as the expert, but didn't actually have any useful knowledge (such as, the location of a single restaurant in all of Seoul, much less one in that neighborhood). But eventually we did find one, and it was quite good.

Morning of the 10th, cab excitement

I guess there's nothing else to mention from the conference.

I'll just put clearly some information that's come up already but not in an organized way. Specifically, I was staying at KIAS for he entirety of my stay in Seoul, and KIAS is located in the city but not downtown, pretty far out actually, near a subway station called Hoegi.

So, now I'll try to give a bit better coverage to the morning after the conference ended, when I went to N Seoul Tower with DG. I forget exactly what Prof C was calling this tower. Maybe Namhansan Tower? I think in Korean it is not called "Seoul Tower" but "[Name of the *part* of Seoul it is in] Tower." It looks a bit like the Space Needle (Seattle) or the CN tower (Toronto). Now, the plan that had been arrived at the night before was:
* meet at DG's hotel at 10.
* the hotel had a shuttle to Dongdaemun Market
* subway to Myeongdong
* taxi from there.
Where the taxi would need to take us was to the base station of a cable car which would take us to the top of a small mountain where the tower was. Prof C. had written as much in Korean in my notebook for me to show to the driver. She also had written something to show a cabbie to get us back to DGs hotel and something for lunch. The lunch one never got used: DG insisted on Bulgoki. I think Prof C was right that he ought to have had Kalbi but what can you do? And the Bulgoki was excellent.

Anyway, so what had not been clear to either of us was that "meet at 10 and catch the shuttle" was a terrible plan because the shuttle departs on the hour. So when I arrived at 10:02 we'd probably already missed it and if we hadn't, then we did while I was going to the bathroom. So instead we took a taxi to Dongdaemun. Which made very little sense: the original plan involved going to Dongdaemun because it's one of the places the hotel has a shuttle to, not because it makes that much sense in general. If one is going to hop a taxi someplace and then get on the subway, it makes more sense to just take a taxi to the nearest subway station. Alternatively, we could have just taken a taxi from the hotel to the cable car station. But when we got on the subway we found that the planned subway ride was a whopping 3 stops so taking a taxi over half the way, riding the subway 3 stops, and then taking a taxi the rest of the way made almost no sense at all.

Still, it was ok, because Dongdaemun was a shopping area and DG was thinking vaguely about getting a teapot for his wife, while I was thinking vaguely about getting some clothes for my sisters, so we poked our heads around Dongdaemun a little bit before hopping on the subway. In other words, it didn't make much sense but it actually worked well.

Anyway we took the subway 3 stops and then got a cab. I showed the cabbie what Prof C had written. He typed it into his little GPS directions navigator thingie (which I will henceforth refer to as an "OnStar"). I started to get kind of a bad feeling: what kind of a cabbie needs OnStar to tell him how to get to the most touristy thing in Seoul? The only thing I could think of was that there was some regulation that requires cabbies to go by the OnStar so they can't take you for a ride.

My bad feeling got worse when we passed Seoul Station. If the route to the tower goes past Seoul station, why did the plan have us getting off the subway somewhere else? On the other hand, it was already pretty clear that the original plan was rather oddly formed. Then the OnStar was telling the cabbie to make a U-turn. This made DG extremely suspicious. But actually there's nothing suspicious about that per se. It's rather common in Korea that you have to drive past where you're going to the next U-turn lane, make a U-turn, come back, and make a right instead of being allowed to make a left. So at this point I was juggling the sense of an imperative to reassure DG that there was nothing suspicious about the U-turn thing with my own misgivings. And also the debate: are we being taken for a ride or have we merely failed to communicate effectively? Is this guy dishonest, incompetent, or is it just that Prof C's handwriting is illegible?

About then, our cabbie pulled over next to another cab and called over for help. So, that confirmed that even with the OnStar he didn't know what he was doing. He turned back to us and said we needed to "transfer bus." He said he would take us to the bus station. This struck me as pretty unacceptable. I was by now pretty sure he was just really new at this, rather than deliberately cheating us, but at any rate I knew we wanted a cable car not a bus. I thought we ought to get down and attempted to convey as much to him without success. On the other hand I knew that D would have been able to tell what I was trying to do and did not join in. Also D had been expressing his own misgivings for some time. So it seemed to me that D was content to be taken to the bus station. So I figured what the hey and sat back. About 15 seconds later D piped up and made the driver let us out.

Somehow the information that our desired destination was a cable car station, as opposed to the tower itself, did not reach D prior to the postmortem on what just went wrong which was conducted as soon as we were out of the taxi, and did reach him then. He was a little cross at me for not telling him sooner, and thought that it made a big difference. Maybe he was right. It had not occured to me that this "bus" might actually be the cable car we wanted and it was just a matter of the guy not knowing the English word for "kei bul leu kah."

Comments

A number of comments were left while I was in Seoul. I just went back and replied to as many as I could find. If I missed any please remind me here.

Seoul in Review

Ok, so as anticipated I was not able to keep up with everything while in Seoul and so I have a number of things I want to cover now from Illinois about the last week or so.

So. On the 6th I got up went to Woori bank and got a check for most of the money that was in my account, leaving about $100 to keep the account open. I don't know whether anybody plans to put any more in there, but at any rate at this point Prof. C. and I have an unfinished project and it looks rather likely that I will be back at some point. When I went to the math dept. office to return my key, the secretary took me back to Woori bank because it turns out my Korean government pension (!) could not be deposited into my existing Woori bank account and so I needed to open a second Woori bank account. The best part is that if I understood correctly this was because the one I opened in September was a "non-Resident account" and so what we were doing in December was opening me a new account as a Korean resident. Well, whatever.

Then I went back to my apartment and finished moving out, met up with SH and SB (J had gone to Seoul the previous day) and headed for the train station to leave Pohang for good. (Only sort of, maybe, but enough so to accent the absurdity of opening a "Korean resident" account immediately beforehand.)

On the train I played Sid Vicious's "My Way" for SH and SB and SH played a bunch of Korean songs for me on his MP3 player. One of these was a guy with a gravelly voice singing a song called "Bring me some water." (Or so SH translated it.) And I then showed him my Howlin' Wolf "Asked her for water (She brought me gasoline)". SB got off early. He was staying with his parents that night. J stayed with his parents the whole time. SH, who is from Incheon was not sure which night he would spend at home. We got the subway to Hoegi and then took a taxi. I'm not sure of the pointfulness of that taxi ride. First, taxi drivers do not know about KIAS. They know about KAIST which is the university which occupies much of that campus, but do not know that one of the buildings on it occupies something called KIAS. So the guy went right past the gate. Later we determined that there is a third thing called KIST around the corner which he might have been tring to take us to. Anyway I got SH to make him turn around and take us to the KAIST campus and then we wandered around for some time in a taxi with the meter running, before giving up and getting out. At about this time I remembered I had a KIAS campus map in my luggage and would be able to find the housing that way.

The timing was perfect. I was supposed to be sharing with a Japanese fellow whose initial is T. He was just on his way out. They had not left a second set of keys for me so I only just barely got in. T. was going out with friends and kindly agreed to leave me the keys. If he got back before I did, he'd wait at their place. Then SH and I found his housing, deposited his stuff and had a quick dinner. I wanted to avoid T having to wait, and did, in fact, get back before him. I switched on the TV which may have been a bad thing. Subsequent experience kind of suggests maybe it was one of those deals you get in hotels sometimes where you put in a credit card number and the cable works. If so this was on T's tab. But it wasn't for long. He got back, he and I chatted a bit. Then he went to bed early and I worked on the talk I was to give in two days, and that's about it.

The next three days were a conference. This was very nice but also a bit wierd. My advisor DG (not to be confused with my collaborator DG or my college buddy DG or Marmadont) was there along with DB, SF and JH. These last three are pretty inseperable. They're senior faculty, a little bit younger than DG. SF is the most approachable and I consider him a friend. DB is the author of two books from which I have learned most of what I know about our subject. JH I was meeting for the third time and he did not remember either of the first two. Incidentally SF put me onto the project with DG the collaborator, and DB and SF are two of my references (as is my advisor, so the only references missing from this conference were my teaching reference (JS for those of you I know from SC. Hey Abbreviatin' is Phun!) and DG the collaborator).

So the thing that was a bit wierd was having these two very different sets of acquaintances around. On the one hand, SH, SB and J, and on the other hand DG, SF, and DB.

I had a million things I wanted to talk to DB about and only managed to get through a few of them.

Jiggedy Jig

Greetings from beautiful Mt. Vernon Illinois. We had a bit of excitement on the way back. I flew from Seoul to Chicago O'Hare and then had a connecting flight from O'Hare to St. Louis. (Until recently, Chicago was the final destination. My folks moved down here to Mt. Vernon a while back and now the nearest major airport is St. Louis.) As I was unloading my stuff on the connecting flight my laptop was not in my guitar case. My blood went cold. Meanwhile the stewardess is hassling me about having the guitar stowed just so. How could it not be there? "Try tilting it a little and see if the bin closes." Where could I have left it? "Well unless you can get someone to agree to put it under the seat" Should I get off the plane and go look for it? "Sir, we need that strapped into a seat." Should I go on to St. Louis and then make phone calls? "Sir it needs to be on the seat like this and strapped in." Was it hopeless anyway?
At first my assessment was that it had probably been left on the plane which I'd taken from Seoul to Chicago. So I'm trying to think but basically feeling like probably there's no point in getting off since the people I'll need to talk to will be Korean air. Then it comes to me that I distinctly remember taking the laptop out of the guitar case and putting it into a seperate plastic tray-thingy to go through the security checkpoint in O'Hare. (One has to clear security again during the transfer process.) At that point it all shifts. If the laptop was left at a security checkpoint in O'Hare, then going on to St. Louis and trying to handle it by phone is a terrible idea. I need to get off this plane. I call out to the stewardess to hang on a second I want off and start grabbing my stuff. I look up to see she's closing the door.

So, the next 10 minutes must have been very annoying for everybody else on that flight. But they did let me off. I did get my laptop back at the security checkpoint (where a bored looking guard thanked me for saving him the paperwork) I got on the next flight to St. Louis, my mom got some Xmas shopping done in the extra three hours, and United didn't even charge me for the new ticket.

(The free ticket may have had something to do with the bit of dialogue:
Stewardess: If you get off you can't get back on.
Me: I understand that. I'll just have to buy a ticket for the next flight.
(Pause. Then, thinking out loud.) Or maybe I can just head to my grandma's instead of my folk's place.
Stewardess: Sir, do you have any checked bags. Do we need to take them off the plane?
(Surely that would have meant at least another half an hour of sitting there for the other passengers.)
Me: Oh god no. No no. They can go on to St. Louis and I'll take the next flight and pick them up.)

Last Night in Korea

This morning I was still not hungry but at least not nauseous anymore. Did the coffee until noon thing like usual and then decided maybe I felt a bit hungry and had a big kalbi lunch. It was a little disappointing when this was brought to me sizzling on what I'll call a "fajita plate" instead of cooked right in front of me on coals brought to the table, but maybe I was thinking of something else. All the same delicious, and my stomach didn't mind it. So basically I am all better.

Didn't do much today. Woke late, did some shopping, visited a museum, swung by this "folk village" for a few minutes but lost interest when there were no reenactors (incidentally, I think they'd just finished shooting a TV show) then sat by the riverside at sunset, then back here, some packing, went out and managed to find a place that serves makkoli, which I'd promised grad student SH I would try, back here, more packing, figured out that I needed the Seoul version of "specified bags," acquired some from the local Family Mart, and shower, shaved for the border guards, and pretty much here we are.

It's late. No time to try to sum anything up right now. And anyway, I'll be attempting some more thorough coverage of the last four days from Illinois anyway.

Seoul 3 or so

today i visited another palace called deoksugung, and a place outside of town called namhansanseong. the latter from the picture at tour2korea looked like there was a there there but it seems to be more of a place where one can go for a nice walk in the mountains. which is more for people who think that walks in the mountains are nice.

i guess it would have been around noon when, having had nothing but coffee all morning which is the usual i spotted a lady selling bundaegi and said (when's the next time i'll have a chance to eat boiled pupae.

now i feel sick it's 10 at night and i haven't eaten anything since and don't particularly want to...

so maybe i have food seasoning. today's bundaegi? the shrimp in last night's whatever-those-pancakes are called? i'm not sure....

but anyway i feel like tuckus and am going to go lie down.

Seoul 3 or so

today i visited another palace called deoksugung, and a place outside of town called namhansanseong. the latter from the picture at tour2korea looked like there was a there there but it seems to be more of a place where one can go for a nice walk in the mountains. which is more for people who think that walks in the mountains are nice.

i guess it would have been around noon when, having had nothing but coffee all morning which is the usual i spotted a lady selling bundaegi and said (when's the next time i'll have a chance to eat boiled pupae.

now i feel sick it's 10 at night and i haven't eaten anything since and don't particularly want to...

so maybe i have food seasoning. today's bundaegi? the shrimp in last night's whatever-those-pancakes are called? i'm not sure....

but anyway i feel like tuckus and am going to go lie down.

Doh

According to WikiTravel (Hooray! That should exist!) DMZ tours need to be booked at least 3 days in advance too. (Two months if you're from South Korea.) Well...

On the other hand, now I have a collaborator in S. Korea which brings with it the relative likelihood of another visit.

Seoul Day 2

These pictures are from Seoul. Scroll down for a bit of text. The images get inserted at the beginning, so the last line can be made sense of that way....





Just a quick update. Today I visited Gyeongbokgung, Changyeonggung, and Jongmyo. These will mean something to Bob once he asks HJ. For the rest of you, the first two are big palace complexes from the Choseon period and the last is the royal shrine. There's a third major palace that I will not be able to see because it is closed in December. (That would be Changdeokgung.) As an aside, the thing I'm finding hardest in parsing Korean is eo (which is "aw") and oe (which is "way").

I do wish I had put a little time into this couple of days before they started. For example, there's a performance piece playing called "the Ballerina who loved a B-Boy" which I would have loved to see but needs to be booked at least three days in advance. (Maybe a week. It depends on who you ask. By the way, today I saw the office of the "International B-Boy Association." I promise to explain "B-Boy" later to the best of my ability.) The other thing is that it's not clear that staying here at KIAS was really the best choice. For example if I'd stayed at the local holiday in where the other conference participants were, I could book an airport shuttle and DMZ tour through them. As it is I'll have to take a taxi and it's not clear whether I'll be able to manage my own DMZ tour.

Also, I took about 200 pictures today. What the heck, let's toss a few up.

Hi From Seoul

Today I went to the Seoul tower with my advisor. The past few days before that a conference. I think I want to try to pick something which will look good at night and do some more tourism today, so just a short note.

the future of this blog

tomorrow i leave for a conference in seoul. i don't expect to post again before then. from seoul i won't be coming back to pohang. i'll hang out for a couple of days and then head back to the US on the 14th. there might be a post or two while i'm in seoul but most likely not. most likely radio silence for about 10 days, and then some posts catching up on what should be the most interesting week of the trip, and then a wrap up, and that's it.

so: see you in about 10 days.

Ephemeral Phenomena

Ice crystals in the fountains, reflections off of the fountains, the sunrise.





I leave Pohang tomorrow. This is what's caught my eye the last 24 hours.

Holy Crap

I am leaving in two days.

Festival wrap up--mostly more graf

That's right: tater tots and Kimchi.
These last two constitute a battle of the bands. Above we have "Bremen." (A first read of the Hangul produced "BuhLayMayn" and confusion but I had already seen their signs with the name in Roman letters around campus. Then later they added Roman lettering to the graf which you can see at the bottom of this photo.) Below we have "Steeler," another POSTECH campus band.

Some band, possibly one of the two above, was playing in the lobby in front of the cafeteria the other night and played, among other things, the "Friends" theme song. (Yes I know that song has a real name.) It was disturbingly faithful to the original. I found myself thinking "Oh, this must be the one where Rachel makes dessert with tater tots and kimchi, and then no one eats it but Joey. Joey: `what? tater tots: good. Kimchi: good!'"

Work this time?

Seems to have been a glitch...

Why only one photo?

some problem with the upload just now...
i wonder if there is a bandwidth limit and i didn't read the fine print....

photo software

if someone (marmadont, i am looking in your direction) knows a reasonable piece of downloadable software that will facilitate the transfer of photos from my camera to my hard drive without distributing them among 30 different folders for no particular reason, i'd be interested in seeing if this mac will run it....

I hate iPhoto

Finishing up old business

Now I guess I need to find that cord an get the photos currently on my camera onto the desktop...

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